Inveterate Travellers: Off to Islay

After leaving Glasgow, on our way to Islay, we passed by Loch Lomond and we stopped for coffee and a few pictures (who could resist). The road follows the shore of the loch until leaving it at Tarbet and then heads along the shores of Loch Fyne, after passing through the ‘Rest and Be Thankful’ pass in the mountains. Our overnight was at Tarbert (notice change of spelling) which is a small village on the coast where the ferry departs for Islay. We stayed at Knap House – a really delightful B&B on the harbour – and had a lovely few hours in the town. Dinner at the Starfish Restaurant was amongst the best seafood we’ve tasted so far. The ferry departed at 9.45am and the trip was smooth and quite lovely – the sun was shining and the sea calm. It’s a two hour trip and we arrived on time on Islay.

Immediately on arrival, we hit the trail for the distilleries, calling at Lagavulin, Laphroaig and Ardbeg and stopping for some lunch at Ardbeg. By this time, of course, the Princess was driving! We tasted at Lagavulin and did the distillery tour at Laphroaig, which was a terrific experience. The full immersion, so to speak! Then I tasted several of their wares and they were very generous with take-away samples for the driver. I registered as a FOG – Friend of Laphroaig – and now have my own square-foot plot of peat bog, with coordinates to boot, so that I can find my spot next time I come back.

We dined in the Bowmore Hotel that night, after sobering up for an hour or two – the Bowmore was a little disappointing. Our B&B is a couple of ks from Bowmore and we walked both ways, given our imbibing in the afternoon and our plans for a few drinks in the evening. The weather today was beautiful and our walk home was lovely – this far north darkness doesn’t come until after 10.30pm. We slept extremely well and breakfasted late, then headed off again for tastings at another couple of distilleries. Imagine tasting whisky at 10 in the morning, but I persevered and had a win. I tried 3 or 4 whiskies at Bruichladdich and decided that I’d like to live on the premises, buying a Port Charlotte, 12 year old, the smoothest peated single malt I’d ever tried. Then, the laddie who was ‘educating’ me produced a sample of the Chief Distiller’s private cask (produced for last week’s Whisky Festival) and I can tell you – this is like Angel’s milk – the most amazing whisky I’ve ever tasted. Unfortunately, I couldn’t buy a bottle – only available here and now! Sweet, almost honey flavoured, fruity and so smooth – fantastic!

Unfortunately, today has been drizzling all day which has limited sight-seeing somewhat, but we have managed to get around the island and see a little of the incredible history this place offers. It looks a little desolate – very few trees, lots of hedges and stone fences and rolling hills – but it is exposed to the Atlantic and Northern Island is only a few miles off the coast. But in its starkness, there is a beauty to the sheltered coves, lovely beaches and pretty cottages – mostly white-washed. Tomorrow we head back to the mainland and Edinburgh.